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STRAIGHT RAZOR 101

How to choose, use, and care for your straight razor.

MEET YOUR STRAIGHT RAZOR

Welcome to Royal Shave’s guide to perhaps the most classic, and intimidating, of wet shaving tools- the Straight Razor. There are many terms used in describing straight razors and understanding them will assist you in selecting the appropriate one.

Read on to become an expert, or shop our exclusive collection of Straight Razors at the click of a button.

Shows a drawing of a Straight Razor with four labeled numbers to create a diagram. Number one shows the point located at the left edge of the blade opposite the handle. Two points to the grind at the front of the blade. Three labels where the width of the blade is defined. Four is the Scale, or the handle of the razor.

MADE FROM QUALITY METALS

Two metals indicate a quality Straight Razor blade- Carbon Steel and Stainless Steel. One is not necessarily better than the other, and the correct choice for you depends on personal preference. Below are a few things to consider when making your choice.

CARBON STEEL

Carbon Steel is considered the benchmark metal when it comes to Straight Razors. This smooth metal creates a more flexible cutting edge- ideal for shaving the contours of the face. Carbon Steel remains sharper longer yet is still easy to strop when sharpening is needed. It should be noted that Carbon Steel is not rust resistant and requires a simple wipe down before being stored in a dry place post-shave.

STAINLESS STEEL

Don’t let the idea of less general maintenance sell you- Stainless Steel blades require experience when it comes to stropping. It presents a more firm, less flexible blade which leads to a more aggressive shave. We recommend Stainless Steel blades for those who have some experience.

Illustration of German flag on a grey background

MADE IN GERMANY

Royal Shave branded Straight Razors are made in Solingen, Germany in collaboration with Ralf Aust. All straight razors are ready-to-shave right out of the box!

MADE FROM QUALITY METALS

Two metals indicate a quality Straight Razor blade- Carbon Steel and Stainless Steel. One is not necessarily better than the other, and the correct choice for you depends on personal preference. Below are a few things to consider when making your choice.

CARBON STEEL

Carbon Steel is considered the benchmark metal when it comes to Straight Razors. This smooth metal creates a more flexible cutting edge- ideal for shaving the contours of the face. Carbon Steel remains sharper longer yet is still easy to strop when sharpening is needed. It should be noted that Carbon Steel is not rust resistant and requires a simple wipe down before being stored in a dry place post-shave.

STAINLESS STEEL

Don’t let the idea of less general maintenance sell you- Stainless Steel blades require experience when it comes to stropping. It presents a more firm, less flexible blade which leads to a more aggressive shave. We recommend Stainless Steel blades for those who have some experience.

Illustration of German flag on a grey background

MADE IN GERMANY!

Royal Shave branded Straight Razors are made in Solingen, Germany in collaboration with Ralf Aust. All straight razors are ready-to-shave right out of the box!

GET IN THE "GRIND"

The Grind of a Straight Razor refers to how much metal has been ground away from the blank. Terms used to describe grind will tell you how thin a blade may be, offering insight into how flexible (and forgiving) the shaving edge will be.

Full Hollow blade illustrating that the steel is ground the thinnest toward the cutting edge

FULL HOLLOW

This grind allows for a thinner, more flexible blade. It is most forgiving and easy to maneuver making it ideal for wet shavers of all levels. Beginners should start here.

Half Hollow blade illustrating that the steel is ground to have a thicker width toward the cutting b

HALF HOLLOW

This slightly more weighty blade offers a balance between flexibility and ridigity. This grind is favored by intermediate or thick haired wet shavers.

Flat Grind or full wedge leaves a thick blade width down to the cutting edge.

FLAT GRIND/FULL WEDGE

This traditional grind leaves the blade thick and less forgiving. It offers a precise shave but rarely is used for full face shaving today.

GETTING TO THE "POINT"

The Point of a blade describes the shape of the end opposite the handle. It is important to know that the point directly relates to the safety of use when considering a shaver’s skill level. The point is also key when shaving tight areas that tend to be more sensitive and require great care- around the nose, lips, ears, and jaw.

Below are the 3 Point styles offered by Royal Shave.

Round Point shows the end opposite of the handle. The curve of this end is rounded.

ROUND POINT

Round Points are most popular due to their easy maneuverability. They naturally offer more protection without compromising precision, making them best for beginners. 

Square Point shows the end opposite of the handle. The end of the blade is cut straight, creating a square angle at the tip of the cutting edge.

SQUARE POINT

Square Point razors are favored by experienced shavers for their precision. A squared off edge allows for total control when it matters most.

Spanish Point blade is shown featuring a concave edge that leads into a rounded, yet ultra sharp point at the cutting edge.

SPANISH POINT

Spanish Points are concaved and feature an ultra sharp point at the cutting edge. This Point requires great skill to safely manuver.

WHEN "WIDTH" MATTERS MOST

Width is another important consideration when it comes to choosing the right blade style. How wide your blade is changes weight, balance, and overall ability to see when using your razor. Straight Razor measurements are give in inches, and in 1/8" increments.

Royal Shave Straight Razors are offered in two widths:

Photo of a 5/8 inch width straight razor blade.

A 5/8" width offers the most versatility for all wet shavers, including beginners. This width supplies the razor with a balanced weight for effortless glide. Users will appreciate having steady control over pressure as they achieve a close, comfortable shave.

Photo shows a thicker, 6/8 inch width straight razor blade

A 6/8" width is a more weighted blade that adds its own pressure to skin, requring a steady skill. This blade width is also favored by those with thicker, tougher beard growth. We find this width is favored by intermediate to expert level shavers. 

GETTING TO THE "POINT"

The Point of a blade describes the shape of the end opposite the handle. It is important to know that the point directly relates to the safety of use when considering a shaver’s skill level. The point is also key when shaving tight areas that tend to be more sensitive and require great care- around the nose, lips, ears, and jaw.

Below are the 3 Point styles offered by Royal Shave.

Round Point shows the end opposite of the handle. The curve of this end is rounded.

ROUND POINT

Round Points are most popular due to their easy maneuverability. They naturally offer more protection without compromising precision, making them best for beginners. 

Square Point shows the end opposite of the handle. The end of the blade is cut straight, creating a square angle at the tip of the cutting edge.

SQUARE POINT

Square Point razors are favored by experienced shavers for their precision. A squared off edge allows for total control when it matters most.

Spanish Point blade is shown featuring a concave edge that leads into a rounded, yet ultra sharp point at the cutting edge.

SPANISH POINT

Spanish Points are concaved and feature an ultra sharp point at the cutting edge. This Point requires great skill to safely manuver.

WHEN "WIDTH" MATTERS MOST

Width is another important consideration when it comes to choosing the right blade style. How wide your blade is changes weight, balance, and overall ability to see when using your razor. Straight Razor measurements are give in inches, and in 1/8" increments.

Royal Shave Straight Razors are offered in two widths:

Photo of a 5/8 inch width straight razor blade.

A 5/8" width offers the most versatility for all wet shavers, including beginners. This width supplies the razor with a balanced weight for effortless glide. Users will appreciate having steady control over pressure as they achieve a close, comfortable shave.

Photo shows a thicker, 6/8 inch width straight razor blade

A 6/8" width is a more weighted blade that adds its own pressure to skin, requring a steady skill. This blade width is also favored by those with thicker, tougher beard growth. We find this width is favored by intermediate to expert level shavers. 

Illustration of a shopping bag with

MAKE YOUR SELECTION

Royal Shave presents our collection of 5 high-quality German made Straight Razors. 

FOR BEGINNERS

5/8" Full Hollow Round Point Carbon Steel

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INTERMEDIATE +

5/8" Full Hollow Square Point Carbon Steel

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INTERMEDIATE +

6/8" Full Hollow Round Point Carbon Steel

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INTERMEDIATE +

6/8" Full Hollow Round Point Stainless Steel

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EXPERT

6/8" Full Hollow Spanish Point Carbon Steel

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Illustration of a shopping bag with

MAKE YOUR SELECTION

FOR BEGINNERS

5/8" Full Hollow Round Point Carbon Steel

Sold out

INTERMEDIATE +

5/8" Full Hollow Square Point Carbon Steel

Sold out

INTERMEDIATE +

6/8" Full Hollow Round Point Carbon Steel

Sold out

INTERMEDIATE +

6/8" Full Hollow Round Point Stainless Steel

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EXPERT

6/8" Full Hollow Spanish Point Carbon Steel

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THE STROP: STRAIGHT RAZOR CARE

Keeping your Straight Razor in line is key to maintaining a close, comfortable shave. Your Royal Shave Straight Razor is ready-to-shave right out of the box, however stropping (aka aligning) the blade before every shave thereafter will help eliminate skin irritation as well as ensure that your razor maintains its quality.

Royal Shave strops feature two materials. One piece is made from smooth Latigo Leather for subtle sharpening and realigning your blade.. The second is crafted from tightly webbed fabric to remove debris and polish the blade post-sharpening.  

An illustration of a straight razor strop. Point one highlights the hanging loop, Two the top leather strip, three the underside nylon webbing strip . Point four highlights the hand grip opposite the hanging hoop

QUICK GUIDE TO USING A STROP

Below is a general overview on using a Strop to care for your Straight Razor.

Illustration showing the strops hanging loop attached to a bathroom hook

1.SECURE STROP

Attach hanging loop to a secure, immovable object. The Strop MUST be pulled taut when in use.

Illustration of a straight razor blade being pulled across the leather strip of the strop

2. MOVE BLADE TOWARD YOU

With the blade flat against the leather, glide the blade toward you with light & even pressure.

Illustration of a straight razor blade being pulled across the leather strip of the strop, but pushed in the opposing direction

3. FLIP & MOVE AWAY

At the end of the belt, twist wrist to flip the blade over. Keep the blade flat as you upstroke. Repeat up + down motions 40-50 times.

Illustration of a straight razor blade being pulled against the nylon webbing strip

4. USE UNDERSIDE WEBBING

Repeat steps 2-3 to smooth and polish the blade. 3-5 passes in generally all that's required to leave the blade shave ready.

QUICK GUIDE TO USING A STROP

Below is a general overview on using a Strop to care for your Straight Razor.

Illustration showing the strops hanging loop attached to a bathroom hook

1.SECURE STROP

Attach hanging loop to a secure, immovable object. The Strop MUST be pulled taut when in use.

Illustration of a straight razor blade being pulled across the leather strip of the strop

2. MOVE BLADE TOWARD YOU

With the blade flat against the leather, glide the blade toward you with light & even pressure.

Illustration of a straight razor blade being pulled across the leather strip of the strop, but pushed in the opposing direction

3. FLIP & MOVE AWAY

At the end of the belt, twist wrist to flip the blade over. Keep the blade flat as you upstroke. Repeat up + down motions 40-50 times.

Illustration of a straight razor blade being pulled against the nylon webbing strip

4. USE UNDERSIDE WEBBING

Repeat steps 2-3 to smooth and polish the blade. 3-5 passes in generally all that's required to leave the blade shave ready.

Illustration of a shopping bag with

STRAIGHT RAZOR ACCESSORIES

Our recommended accessories will help you achieve your best shave yet.

STROP

3" Latigo Leather with Nylon Underside Webbing.

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DRIP BOWL

Easily wipe blade between passes for a clean blade

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BARBER TOWEL

Extra long, herringbone woven towels to wipe away mess.

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RAZOR + BRUSH STAND

Chrome Straight Razor and Brush stand properly stores shaving tools.

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Illustration of a shopping bag with

STRAIGHT RAZOR ACCESSORIES

See our inclusive set or shop all we have to offer below.

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